Joseph Ettedgui brought Kenzo and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac to the world's attention, and championed talents like Azzedine Ala?a and Yohji Yamamoto. He also offered a new way of dressing, an intelligent uniform of luxury essentials. Today creative director Louise Trotter continues to evolve that guiding principle, finding beauty and function in everyday design, and creating the uniform of today.In the act of crafting something as democratic as a real working wardrobe for now, everything must be considered: The good, the bad, the indifferent. And, perhaps most telling of all, those grey junctures in-between. For autumn winter 2018 pleated skirts unfurl, knitwear swaddles, tailoring tucks and longline dresses gather suddenly about the body. In these atypical moments of embrace, an honest relationship between wearer and worn can be felt.In contrast, the organic and synthetic collide. Noble fabrics ? wool gabardine, felt, alpaca ? are shown alongside the engineered other. Coated silks and natural yarns newly woven with manmade fibres plasticize tradition. Surface decoration further questions authenticity. What might at first glance seem to be animal or woodgrain prints are actually digitised versions of the real thing. While infallible colours like ecru and navy reveal the artificiality of neon yellow, plastic bag blue and highlighter red.